One of the most common concerns in the skincare world is "enlarged pores". Social media has probably made this an even bigger concern, since so many photos online are edited or use blurring beauty filters, which make it appear as though the person has invisible pores. But in real life, we all have pores and yes they're often visible with or without makeup. So can we make them invisible? Not without those special filters.
But what causes our pores to appear enlarged? It's usually one of two things (or a combination of both). One is having oily skin with slower skin turnover, which leads to accumulation of dead skins cells and oil in the pore, which oxidizes and turns dark (aka blackheads). If this continues over time unchecked, it can cause the pore to dilate. Second is skin aging. With age our skin's collagen and elastin content declines, which causes the skin to be more lax, and this can lead to stretching of the pores and make them appear enlarged.
So what to do? If you have oily skin and are prone to blackheads, it can be of benefit to use products made for oily skin that contain active ingredients such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, retinol, and pharmaceutical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene). These can all act as chemical exfoliants, to decrease the accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, reducing the formation of blackheads. Salicylic acid is probably one of the best ingredients to use for treating and preventing blackheads, because since it is lipid-soluble, it can penetrate into the pores. But be careful when using these ingredients, as they can cause irritation in some people, and can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun (so wear your sunscreen every day). Using too many acids or active ingredients at once may increase the likelihood of dry skin, sensitivity, or a compromised skin barrier, so be conscious of this.
You may have heard of "skin cycling" as it's been trending lately. This may be a strategy worth trying in order to let your skin recover after using an exfoliant, and decrease the risk of causing dryness or irritation. It involves using an exfoliant one night, a retinoid the next night, and then two nights in a row of using purely moisturizing ingredients. After the fourth night, you begin the cycle again. Using a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or greater during the day is recommended.
Aging skin can cause the pores to appear larger as they stretch due to skin laxity. The best way to approach this is to focus on both prevention and treatment. Prevention involves protection from the sun and free radicals, by using a Vitamin C serum plus a quality sunscreen every day. To help aging skin boost it's collagen production, consider using a night time retinoid cream regularly (it can be 2 or 3 times per week or more often if tolerated). Vitamin C used topically also aids in the skin's production of collagen. Treatments that are done in the doctor's office or medical spa which can also help boost the skin's collagen production include: Sculptra injections, microneedling (with or without radiofrequency). laser skin resurfacing (e.g. Pixel, Clear and Brilliant, and CO2 lasers), and HFUS (Ultherapy and others that use ultrasound). Be aware that a doctor should approve these treatments for you before doing them, as there are some contraindications to treatment.
Will we ever make our pores disappear? No, but good consistent skincare can help manage enlarged pores and prevent them from dilating more. And if in doubt and you're feeling self-conscious, invest in a good blurring photo filter, and don't give it a second thought. We are all perfectly imperfect, so maybe it's time to embrace it :)
All the best,
Dr. B
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